Thursday, December 06, 2007
* Base coat: Rucksack Tan
* Wash: Skorne Red + Brown Ink + Battlefield Brown
* Wash (thin): Bloodstone + Thamar Black
* Minor black touchups
* Highlight: Rucksack Tan + touch of Skorne Red
I also did the eyes and the metal strap hooks. Those were pretty straight forward, although I don't think the eyes turned out so great. I might redo them later.
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
The model still looks kinda dumb to me at this point, but hopefully once I start filling out the rest of details it will look better. I'll probably keep working tonight, but this was a good point to stop and take a picture and chronicle the effort.
Monday, December 03, 2007
- Grogspar continues to be awesome. His slowburn screws up alot of plans.
- The Testament's feat was crazy good.
- Hallowed Avenger was very handy. I used it to get the Guardian further up the middle and block off some charge options for the Titans.
- Seneschals are just crazy ridiculous. Nothing like getting a chain attack slam on a Bronzeback and knocking it back into a Titan Gladiator to screw up a whole mess of stuff.
- The Guardian continues to be one of my favorite jacks.
- The Agonizer is frustratingly good at removing options.
- The Titan Gladiator's animus is also frustratingly good at removing options.
- Daughters continue to be a favorite unit for me. I especially loved having a little flanking unit of Vilmon and his harem full of Daughters and Hawk.
- Ferox are not fearless, and failing a cmd check can make or break a game. Putting terror on my knights was an amusing way to add more danger to the Ferox charging them.
Well, I'm hoping to get at least one more game in before I leave on my long vacation to Canada. In the mean time, I need to get refocused on painting again. I'm so close to fully painted!
Saturday, December 01, 2007
Friday, November 30, 2007
* Grass base - This is just Iosan green as a base coat with a couple washes of Ordic Olive and Battlefield Brown. My goal here isn't to make it look great, just to provide enough base so that when the static grass and flocking go on top, it looks decent.
* Rocks - Very easy. Just Trollblood Highlight as a base coat, followed by a wash of Ironhull Grey and then highlights of Frostbite.
* Skulls - These I tried something new. Base coat of Jack Bone, then a wash of Vallejo Smoke, then highlights of Menoth White Highlight.
I also put down a base coat of Coal Black over all the skin and fur. After a couple of discussions, I'm going to try to make the skin black and the fur medium grey. It's going to be a stretch for my skills, but it's all about painting like I have a pair.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
There's a couple key things I want to highlight before signing off for the night. First, I'm very happy with how the overall look of the model turned out. It wasn't the best paint job, but I was focused on practicing overall color balance, and specific effects. This one isn't perfect, and the sculpt itself didn't help, but I feel like it worked out ok. The leathers, metals, and wood grain were things I wanted to practice new techniques on too, and they panned out ok I think.
The second item is my photo setup is getting better. I tried out a bunch of different paper backdrops and found that paper is just too reflective. So now I've got a medium grey felt and that seems to be working quite well.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Saturday, November 24, 2007
The armor plates are pretty straight forward. First I did the insets, starting with Necrotite Green (3 coats to get a nice smooth undercoat. Next I did a wash of Wurm Green. Then I started doing shading working from Wurm Green through Ordic Olive, then to Cryx Bane Base. I decided to shade rather than highlight because the inset plates were simply easier to shade into the recesses rather than try to blend highlights into the centers of the plate areas.
Once this step was done, I put down a base of Pig Iron on the plates, then covered that with Brass Balls. I find that a base coat of Pig Iron really helps when adding yellowish metallics so that it doesn't take as many coats of paint to get good coverage.
I'll probably do some additional work on the metals of the plates, but I'm exhausted tonight, so I'm going to give it a rest for now.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Thursday, November 22, 2007
This project is a Christmas present for Sean, so I'm saving all these posts as drafts until such time as the gift is given. I'm going to once again try to take as many pictures as possible and document all the steps as I go.
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Last night's game illustrated a key point to Warmachine/Hordes: The game is complex, and if you haven't played for a while, it's easy to forget all the intricacies of the models. Timing and special features are a key to the game.
Some highlights from my side of the table:
- Fielded Hawk for the first time and she was awesome! She whacks champs good! She's like a super Daughter of the Flame.
- Fielded the Sunburst and it was, for the most part, innefective.
- Fielded Grogspar, and he continues to rock.
- Borka's feat round + Liquid Courage + Fell Caller's Inspire is just ridiculous.
- Calvarly can be dangerous, but I spend alot of effort maneuvering to avoid them and thus negate alot of their value.
- I have the small case, cause the larger cases are... well... large. I like the size of the small case.
- The trays, although very protective, are 1 per level in my case.
- It's hard to make a tray that will fit lots of models, and a varied set of models. Maybe there's a secret art to it, but I seem to have optimized my trays to specific models too much, and now I can't really store other models in those trays.
So my plan is simple: I want to create some trays that are essentially half-sized to the normal foam trays I have, and make them so that the models can stand upright (to avoid foam rubbing against the model's paint, and make the slots a little more flexible in terms of what models will fit. I've already got a pile of cardboard, so the real first step is to find the foam.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Something specific to note on this model is that I took extra time and care in "shading" the metals, particularly on his weapon. This is one of my goals for the next few models. I'm also starting to get a bit more of the hang of the 2-brush method, although I still have a long ways to go (as evidenced by the poor blending on his black robe).
Monday, November 12, 2007
Tiny Magnets! - These little guys seem like they could be real useful for a whole variety of applications.
Kublacon Painting Competion 07 - These are the pics of the winning entries from Kublacon07.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Here's some notes of things I put extra effort into, or tried a new technique:
- The leathers were something I put more effort into than before. I used to use one layer of paint, one of ink, and then maybe a highlight if I felt ambitious. For these I went a little further. The lighter brown used Bootstrap Leather, then a wash of Battlefield Brown, then three highlight layers of Bootstrap Leather and Rucksack Tan. The darker leathers were a base of Bloodstone, then a wash of GW Skaven Brown ink, then 3 highlights of Bloodstone and Khador Red Highlight. It was more work for sure, but I'm very happy with the results.
- The blades of her swords were done with multiple highlights of various metals, all the way to pure Vallejo Metal Medium. Highlighting and working metals is something I definately need alot more experience with.
- I specifically tried to work hard on her face, all the way down to carefully painting the eyes and shading the lips with a touch of a fleshy pink color.
- Purple is a color I've never really worked with, and this model presented a nice opportunity for that. Of course, it also lead to a rather "Joker"ish look to her, but I'm ok with that. Overall the purple worked pretty well, using Beaten Purple, Carnal Pink, and GW Hybrid Purple ink, and of course some Thamar Black.
I'm now down to 3 models left to paint. I totally enjoyed painting this pirate, and am looking forward to getting some more to paint. For this model, I designate her as "unbounded" for time, and just to keep working on until I feel that she's really done to my satisfaction. This is in preparation towards the Kublacon painting competition next year. I'm not expecting to win, but I'd like to feel like not a shmuck putting one of my models in the competition. I'm sure I'll be posting more about that in the near future.
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
- Got lots of sun
- Went ATV riding through St Maartan (favorite thing)
- Went horseback riding in the ocean (literally, up to my waist!)
- Went helmet diving in St Thomas (spooky but fun)
- Read Generations
- Nearly finished The Fabric of the Universe by Brian Greene
- Relaxed a ton
- Ate way too much
- Saw a pile of movies: Monster House, The Hoax, The Holiday, Evan Almighty, License to Wed, Zodiac, others that I can't remember, plus alot of football
Oh, and an additional side note, the pureblood that I painted for my buddy Sean won best painted model at the Stampede tourney at his LGS. I'm stoked. It gets me even more pumped up for Kublacon.
Time to get crackin! I got the 5 Krielstone Scribes primed and awaiting paint right now. Then on to solos once I'm warmed up again.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Saturday, October 06, 2007
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
And there you have it!
Monday, September 17, 2007
Wood grain: I tried my hand at painting wood grain on the rifle stock. Basically I started with rucksack tan, then painted grain lines with bloodstone, then did a couple thin glazes using a mix of rucksack tan, bootstrap leather and matte medium in roughly a 1:2:4 ratio. The key was making sure the glaze was thin enough to not hide the detail below, but thick enough to shift the color.
Two Brush: I used the two-brush technique much more extensively here. His coat, pants, and other misc places. The coat really turned out great I think. Still a couple rough transition spots, but after I finished it, I just kept staring at it thinking to myself how I've started to turn another corner with painting now.
Armor: I used a mix of armor wash and matte medium when washing the metals. It really dulled them down noticably, which I actually liked. I think less matte medium will be better in the future, but I do like the initial results I had. It also helped so that highlights added after the armor wash really stand out more.
Red Leather: This is something I wanted to try out just for kicks. I love the reddish leather look on some of the stuff that I've seen come out of the PP studio lately, and wanted to start figuring out how to build up that color. For this model, I used a mix of khador red base and bootstrap leather, and then glazed it with rust brown ink and matte medium. It's ok, but definately needs more refinement, especially in highlighting. The basic color is pretty close to what I'm looking for, but it needs more depth.
Photo: Ok, this is actually a problem area. The color on the above photos is really bad. I need to spend some time to enhance my photo rig some more. I'm thinking the background is a big issue at this point. That'll be my first adjustment.
Enough for now... All hell's broken loose at work, and I need to try to stay sane. Hopefully my painting time doesn't suffer too much.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
I only really played one list for all three games, despite having a backup Amon list: Severius, Guardian, Revenger, Daughters, Deliverers(6), Zealots(10) with Monolith, Knights Exemplar, Rhupert, Eiryss, Vilmon, Paladin, 2 Seneschals, and Grogspar.
The first game was against my old arch rival Lance who was playing Cryx with eDeneghra. This battle was truly epic, with very dramatic moments. In the end, the battle resulted in a tie for VPs.
The second game was against a Cygnar player using Seige. This game unfortunately only lasted 2 rounds before time was called. This made me sad for a couple reasons. I had gone first, and at the beginning of my third turn, I was still in control of the 3 control points AND I was primed to deliver a severe beatdown. As it was, I lost the game due to time being called and not having enough opportunity to leverage my troops. I'm still a little pissed about this, but my opponent was clearly having issues dealing with the Menoth knot, so hopefully I gave him a nasty headache at least.
The third game was against a superb Cryx player named Brian, who has previously stomped the ever living crap out of me. Somehow, I managed to get a caster kill against eSkarre and pulled out the win. However, I should note, that Brian had me dead to rights a couple times and either opted for a different strategy, or had a bad dice roll. Severius was down to 3 damage left by the end of the game. All in all though, it was an incredibly fun battle and I had to give kudos to Brian for such a fun and challenging battle.
Overall, the tournament was a blast. I still dislike the time/turn limit, but honestly I think the only good solution is chess clocks and penalties for taking too long. Anyway, life/work is taking up all my time, and I need to bolt now.
Monday, September 03, 2007
Sunday, September 02, 2007
Now, here are some notes on the experience:
- Matt DiPietro is right: Highlighting is way easier than shading.
- The mechanics of switching brushes was made easier after I watched carefully how Ron Kruzie did it in the video. I held the blending brush in my mouth while using the applicator brush, then slightly rotated the applicator brush to hold the blending brush at the same time. After a few swaps, this became very smooth to do.
- Switching quickly after applying paint is key, so it worked best to do small pieces at a time. For example, the high folds of the cloth, I would apply some paint and work one direction, then apply some more paint and work the other direction. When I tried to work both directions in one application, the second side was already starting to dry too quickly.
- The right mix of paint and "water" was important. I'd say the optimal was approximately 5:4 paint to "water". In my case, water is a mixture of water, flow extender, and matt medium (I haven't a clue what the actual ratio was, but probably something like 20:1:4).
- The effect for shading really is a pulling mechanism, with lots of paint in the crevice and pulling paint out of the crevice.
- The effect for highlighing really is a sort of erasing mechanism, sort of pulling paint back up on top of the highlight to erase where there's too much. It will take me a while to get used to this since I'm used to smoothing by slowly pulling paint outward from the highlight.
I think there were probably plenty more things I noticed/learned, but it's getting late, and I'm too sleepy to recall them now. Tomorrow I'm hoping to practice again on some of the smaller armor plates with red tones and see how that compares.
The concept is relatively straightforward, but I'll defer to a description by Matt DiPietro on one of the Privateer Forum threads (the post is buried somewhere in the thread):
"One method is called pushing and the other is called pulling and they are often used in conjunction. You can also just run your blending bush (you're using two brushes I assume) along the edge of your fresh paint and just smooth the transition. Pushing paint is kind of like using your second brush like an eraser. Highlights are much harder to do than shades using blending so if you're just starting out you should start with shading. lay down a midtone as your base coat and make sure that there is absolutely no patchy bits. Then choose a color for your shadows. glob a bunch of paint into the a crevice of your model then use a second brush that has been wetted with blending medium (aka saliva*) use it to pull some of that paint out of the crevice. If you pull too much or too far just push the paint back in to the crevice/fold repeat until satisfied. Afew tips... if you get water marks/bath rings when you blend adjust the consistency of your paint; too much water and you'll get a ring not enough and the same thing happens. Use your best brush as your blender and your more worn brush as your paint aplicator. It often helps to use a bigger brush for blending, I use a #2 almost exclusively, even for fine details. Once you've mastered blending your shading then move on and try highlighting at least thats my advice."
So, with the video, description, plenty of W&N S7's, and a fresh load of motivation, I am embarking on learning this technique this weekend. I'll post notes as I go along, and if I get extremely motivated, I'll even try to take a little bit of video with my new camera and see if I can post it.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Pin and cork: If the model is relatively small, I'll put an extra long pin through the foot, prime the model, then stab the pin through a cork. The cork gives me plenty of holding surface and also tends to fit the pin tightly, keeping the model from spinning while holding it.
Base and empty can: For larger models, I'll glue a base to the top of an empy Testor's spray can. The cans are roughly 50mm which is perfect for large bases. Then I use pliers to slightly bend the tab on the bottom of the model to cause it to fit tightly into the base's slot. The can makes for a very handy grip and is large enough to brace both hands together with. In the picture below I cleverly didn't put a model in the slot, but I'm sure you get the idea.
Monday, August 27, 2007
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Saturday, August 25, 2007
At this point, I'm down to just the Testament of Menoth for Protectorate warcasters left to paint!
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Robotech The New Generation: 8, 10-13
Robotech The Macross Saga: 12, 14-17
Robotech Masters: 9-13
Longshot limited series: 1-6
Nightcrawler limited series: 1-4
Doctor Who: 57-60
Destroyer Duck: 1-7
Harlan Ellison's Dream Corridor: 1, 3-5
Harlan Ellison's Dream Corridor Special
Elf Quest Metamorphosis: 1
Elf Quest New Blood: 2-35
Elf Quest New Blood Summer Special: 1
Elf Quest New Blood '93 Summer Special: 1
Elf Quest Two-Spear: 1-5
Elf Quest Summer Special 2001: 1, 2
Elf Quest Hidden Years: 1-29
Elf Quest Worldpool: 1
Elf Quest Kings Cross: 1, 2
Elf Quest Kahui: 1-6
The Rebels: 1
Jink: 1, 2
2010 limited series: 1, 2
Excalibur: 1-13, 15-17
Web of Spiderman: 3-14, 16, 17, 19, 21-25, 27
Web of Spiderman Annual: 1
Akira: 1, 21, 23-38
Questprobe featuring the Hulk: 1
Questprobe featuring Spiderman: 2
Questprobe featuring Human Torch and Thing: 3
Kitty Pride and Wolvering limited series: 1-6
Genocyber: 1, 2, 4
HP Lovecraft's Cthulhu: 1-3
The Nam: 1-26
Transformers Headmasters: 1
Transformers limited series: 2, 4
Transformers Universe: 3, 4
Shogun Warriors: 2, 5, 6
Dune limited series: 1-3
Last Starfighter limited series: 1-3
Monday, August 20, 2007
For my own tracking purposes, here's the list of comics I cataloged last night from the first of 4 boxes:
Peter Parker, The Spectacular Spiderman: 1, 35, 94, 95, 99-112, 114, 116, 117, 119-128
Peter Parker, The Spectacular Spiderman Annual: 5, 6
Spiderman and His Amazing Friends: 1
Spiderman and Daredevil: 1
Marvel Two-In-One: 90
The Amazing Spiderman: 59, 75, 93, 109, 128, 133, 136, 141, 142, 144, 148, 149, 151-154, 156, 159-163, 165-183, 185-190, 192, 193, 195-200, 202, 203, 205, 206, 208-210, 212, 218, 220, 223-226, 228, 234-237, 240, 244, 246, 257, 258, 260-276, 278-287, 289, 290
Giant Size Spiderman and Master of Kung Fu: 2
Marvel Tales Starring Spiderman: 69-71, 127, 137, 170, 172-180, 182, 183, 185-190, 192, 193, 195-200
Marvel Team Up: 75, 82, 120, 147, 150
Marvel Team Up Annual: 6
New Mutants: 1, 16, 17, 20-26, 28-38, 40-42, 44, 46-48, 52-58, 60-72
New Mutants Annual: 1-4
New Mutants Special Edition: 1
Uncanny X Men: 153, 170-220, 222-250
Uncanny X Men Annual: 8-12
Giant Size X Men: 1
Heroes for Hope: 1
Classic X Men: 1, 2, 4-6, 8, 9
X Factor: 1, 2, 4, 6, 11, 12, 24-26
X Factor Annual: 1
Incredible Hulk and Wolverine: 1
Wednesday, August 08, 2007
Saturday, August 04, 2007
The little rune stones were actually quite easy. I just gave them a coat of Ironhull Grey, then a wash of black ink, then some highlights of white with just a touch of Ironhull Grey in it. I specifically didn't use Frostbite to make sure they didn't blend in perfectly with the skin.
The eyes were sort of a pain, and in general I hate painting eyes. For these I just used Cygnar Blue Highlight as a base, then added white to it in successive highlights (about 3) until I did a final dot of just pure white.
The base was easy. Just added a bunch of static grass, and then some of the tall grass in a bunch. I'm still not really good with the tall grass, but this batch seems ok. I also added some of the tiny leaves to help give a little more variation to the base.
In summary, this was a great model to paint. Some particular challenges and learning experiences was working the large skin surfaces, particularly in a shading of white I don't normally use.